I proudly brought a Pinot Noir from Chile, made by the tremendously huge and well-financed Cono Sur label, up to the counter.  “There you go,” I said, putting down the bottle in front of her. “That’s carbon neutral wine.”

She looked me straight in the eye, unfazed and unimpressed: “Now, how can something shipped all the way from Chile be carbon neutral?”  I stopped right then and there.  She was right.

The hard part is that phrases like “carbon neutral delivery” and “sustainable farming practices” are easy to say, and may appear on labels, but the down-to-earth reality is often something different.

Size and distance matters when it comes to environmental issues of any kind, but especially in farming.  Think of it this way: in a large vineyard, or a remarkably huge one, it is harder to keep an eye on all the vines, keep them fertilized, and to tend them and finally to harvest the grapes without a great deal of extra energy and materials to cover that much area.  In contrast, if a vineyard is small enough to be walked and checked, no vehicle is needed to drive around, except perhaps to do larger plowing jobs or to carry the grapes to the crushing facility.

Furthermore, the term “organic” can get sticky.  In order to be “certified organic,” a vineyard or company has to complete a lot of steps— steps that cost money and time.  So small farmers, who may have practices which would easily obtain such certification, don’t end up getting the label.

So what can one do to support good practices?  Two examples to follow are Mike Lempriere of Perennial Vintners and Matt Albee of Eleven Winery, both on Bainbridge Island.

Mike from Perennial Vintners explains some of the issues with environmental vocabulary on his website:

“Organically grown grapes, Sustainable farming, Biodynamic, and Least-toxic are all vineyard practices. These each have their strict rules, but you’ll have to decide what’s important to you, thus which products you choose to buy. The important thing to note is that to become certified as adhering to any of these practices takes at least 3 years. A new designation has appeared recently of “in transition” meaning that the vineyard is partway through this process.

Least-Toxic: As an example, it is possible to kill weeds with boiling water or steam — very environmentally friendly, and with no residuals like salmon stream runoff. However, when you consider the energy consumed in heating all that water, the “carbon footprint” may be worse than would be using a specific targeted weed killer. And what about using a tractor to do mechanical weed removal? Again, the “carbon footprint” of fossil fuels consumed by the tractor may be worse than alternatives — it’s all what you choose as the most important.

At Perennial Vintners our vineyard is maintained in a manner that would pass the State of Washington organic certification, although we have not gone through the certification process. (Remember, it takes 3 years.) We do intend to complete the WA State Organic certification process in the future. (The packet of paperwork is on my desk — it’s over 1/4″ thick, 37 pages!)”

This does not mean Mike’s not interested in organic or sustainable farming—it does mean he has to make choices.  Either he can dig, plow, plant, prune, watch the weather, keep an eye on the myriad details that lead to harvest, take care of his family, be a dad . . . or, he can fill out forms, jump through hoops, and “comply” with what he needs to do to become “certified organic.”  For me, the bottom line is that I trust him.  He’s doing it the right way, because he is part of a small community which “answers to itself” in the end, and he is aware of his place in the larger community.  I invite people who attend the tasting this Thursday night to ask a lot of questions. That way we can continue the expand the dialogue.

Mike also suggests the concept of the “100 mile diet”:  the closer to home the products we buy are made, the lower the impact overall of packaging, distribution, and transportation. As Mike notes, Bainbridge actually represents the closest set of vineyards to downtown Seattle as the crow flies.  The idea of supporting and buying local is well explained and centralized at the Puget Sound Fresh website.  It’s well worth a look.

In addition to supporting sustainable farming, using recycled materials to make his packaging, Matt Albee of Eleven Winery also has specific goals to create positive change.  In one of his blog posts about his winery, he explains:

“Ok, so here’s the deal. I love making wine and being in the wine business. But ultimately, I don’t want to be just another schmo schlepping wine. Where’s the fun in that? I want to make a difference in the world – I think all of us do, in one way or another. But it’s a challenge – you grow up, you have kids, and pretty soon you’ve got financial and time commitments that make it all but impossible to give of yourself. Amazingly, many people still do, which is a real tribute to the human spirit. But for the majority of us, whose paths have led us outside the direct philanthropic arena, and whose careers don’t have a lot of cushion in them, it can be very difficult to help realize the changes that are so desperately wanted in the world.”

The bottom line? He aims to donate his profits to charity:  “Eleven Winery will always donate all of its profits to charity, specifically charities that focus on ending the cycle of poverty, in the U.S. and abroad. We anticipate reaching profitability in 2009; until then, we will donate $1,000 annually to World Bicycle Relief, an organization that provides bicycles to communities in Africa (they had a cool segment on the Today Show recently, btw).”

So there are plenty or ideas, plenty to look forward to, and plenty to support.  In our own Capitol Hill Community, transportation, urban density and planning will be some of the major issues over the next ten years.  And while the things on the Hill are likely to get much more chaotic before they get better, I have consistently seen and heard the right attitude to support change:  many customers who come in the shop have walked or biked; they almost always have their own bags— and customers also frequently turn down a need for a printed receipt.  Such small changes in consumer behavior can have tremendous impact as more and more people engage in such positive practices.

Take some time to “look around” on the web; as our community impact comes more into focus, knowledge and networking will be key.

Cheers,

Haj

The Vibrant City of Oporto

 In advance of the tasting this Thursday (6-8pm) at Vino Verite, people have asked for a “primer” on Port.  Since I traveled to Port not too long ago (known to the Portuguese as Oporto), I ended up solidifying a great deal of the book and tasting experience I previously had with Port.

For what it’s worth, I highly recommend traveling to Portugal, and especially Oporto— it is a vibrant and delightfully “scruffy” city, with superb restaurants, friendly people, and some great off-the-beaten-path museums.   It is how I remember Paris was about 20 years ago; while the people are nice, the city is not primarily oriented to tourism.  Except for the Port trade, that is.

But the nice thing is that the grapes for Port are picked far from Oporto, and the barrels of wine are aged across the river from the city as well, in a town called Villa Nova de Gaia.  So as a visitor, one can hop in and out of the Port Wine experience, which can be very tourist oriented, but certainly should not be missed.

Port’s origins are pretty much the same as any traditional red wine.  For example, one of the grapes used, Tinta Roriz, is the Portuguese name for Tempranillo, the famed Spanish grape predominantly grown in Rioja and the Douro region of Spain.  In Spain, the Douro region is named for the same river that if followed all the way to its end, brings you past the vineyards that grow grapes for Port, and finally, the city of Oporto, where the Douro meets the sea.

In contrast to Oporto’s near-costal location, the grapes for Port are grown far up the valley of the Douro, on the steep, terraced sides of the valley.  (Note in the picture that just about every inch possible is used to grow vines.)  Once the grapes are harvested, they are fermented in the traditional ways that all red wine is— but when making port, the wine has brandy added to it to stop the fermentation process (the high alcohol of the brandy kills off the yeast).  At this point, the ceremony begins— the fortified wines are transferred from tanks into barrels, which are loaded onto boats called Rabelos.  The Rabelos head downstream towards the mouth of the Douro, and upon reaching the city of Villa Nova de Gaia, which is directly across the river from Oporto, the barrels are offloaded and placed in the huge variety of cellars or caves to begin aging.

Ruby Port 

Ruby port is the youngest and least processed of the ports— yet it can have incredible complexity and flavor.  Just don’t expect it to be at all like aged ports.  Since the grapes are picked, pressed, and fermented in steel or concrete tanks, there is no oxidation that occurs.  Therefore, Ruby Ports have a thick, sweet, and robust flavor mostly— and again the complexities from the base flavors can range from earthy to citrusy.  Ruby is also the least expensive, so a great deal of sampling is not out of the question!

Ruby and White Port

 White Port 

White port, as the name suggests, is made from white grapes, but the same process is used as is to make Ruby port.  White ports can have a rather intense sweet quality, but many can offer delightfully intriguing qualities and notes such as orange peel, pear, and vanilla-almond flavors.  It is best served chilled, and there are dry as well as sweet versions.  White Port is a style that is gaining in popularity, especially with excellent domestic versions produced in California and Washington State.

Tawny Port

Now we get to the style of Port most people are accustomed to— this is “base port” (Ruby) put in the barrels that are then shipped downriver to the city of Villa Nova de Gaia.  The barrels allow in a certain amount of air, so the wine slowly oxidizes, as well as interacts with the wood of the barrel.  The wine loses its red or ruby colors and turns tawny, or amber.  You might imagine that the differences in the original red wine used to make Tawny will result in a huge range of possibilities as the port is aged for designated decades of 10, 20, 30, and 40 years. The port ages and the color changes; warm brownish hues mean the flavors turn towards nuts, vanilla, chocolate, and an incredible variety of wood-based aromas fill the glass.  These woody notes, pleasing and harmonious, are what have ensnared so many people to become fans, ever searching for that deep, elegant nose and flavor of Tawny Ports.

Colheita

Colheita means “vintage” in Portuguese, but must not be confused with the style and gravity of “Vintage Port” which is explained below.  In short, Colheita is Tawny Port from a single vintage— the difference is that Colheita is aged in the barrels for at least 18 months, but more often for a much longer period, in some cases decades.  Therefore the mark of Colheita is most certainly the single year’s vintage, but also that it has been allowed to oxidize and mature in the barrels, not the bottle.

“Vintage” Port

Vintage Port is considered the highest level and most cherished of the Ports.  The various houses which grow and make the ports will keep a sharp eye out for “ideal years,” and if they feel one is reached, a “Vintage” is declared.  Therefore, the single year on a bottle of Vintage Port refers to that great year’s harvest, determined by the overall quality of the original wine.  The wine is not put in barrels to oxidize, marking the difference from Colheita. Now, you might think that since Vintage Port draws so much attention that Vintages would be declared more often than not— however, given that the world’s opinion of the Vintage will be heavily weighed and communicated, producers are very, very careful in determining which years will be declared as “Vintage.”  Vintage port can be aged with great success in the bottle, so keeping it cellared can be a great idea.  Usually a Vintage Port is made in small quantities, so the price is quite high because the bottles end up being in rare supply.

Crusted Port

No, we’re not talking Port that is enjoyed by Pirates. (But it’s fun to think about anyway.)  Crusted Port is in many ways a great secret— it is a blend of ports from various years.  The date on Crusted Port simply refers to the year the bottle was created, and should not be confused with Vintage Port, made from the grapes of a single year’s exceptional harvest.  However, Crusted Port is usually quite excellent, given that blending can produce results of higher quality than simply sticking to a single year that may or may not have been stellar.

There’s more to report here, but this is adequate for one to understand the most common types of Port on the shelves or your local retailer.

Enjoy!

-Haj

Cellared Barrels of Tawny Port

Vineyards below the Andes Mountains in Argentina

 At our tasting the other night, there was a distinct buzz in the air over that night’s regional choice: South America.  And I mean the excitement was truly palpable.

 I have people in the shop and friends tell me, “can you recommend a good Argentine Malbec? I’m so into them right now.” In part, I can hear a tinge of interest in their voices as well as a touch of “I’ve heard it’s the big thing right now.” So why is South American wine so hip? 

 The first answer is not at all romantic, in the wine sense:  marketing.  While Argentina’s first vines were brought from Spain and planted in the 1500s, the bulk of the wine making has been focused on massive production for sake of consumption.  And the Argentines do drink a lot of their own wine, well over 80% that is produced every year, according to some statistics.   At one point, Argentina produced more wine than any other country outside Europe; given Australia’s and New Zealand’s volume of production, that fact is really saying something.

 At some point the Argentine wine producers turned full-tilt towards creating exportable wines.  They saw lots of money in it, and had predictable growing seasons and conditions— a lot of this had to do with certain grapes which are imminently more “growable” than some European varietals; Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese are pretty resilient grapes. But Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to grow and maintain.  This explains two things:  one, why we tend to see so much of the same kinds of wine from Argentina (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvingnon, for examples), and also why a great deal of it tastes very similar.  The producers pumped out tons of cases of predictable, affordable wines.

 But the larger production and big profits over the years has yielded some very good things— for one example, there is room for larger producers to start side projects that are entirely organic.  One example is the very new Cameleon label.

 Started as a fully organic project, Cameleon is run by the well known producer Jean Bousquet (who has the money to start and continue such a project).  The fruit is sourced from the beautiful vineyards in Tupungato, located in the foothills of the Andes Mountain range.  As one might imagine, the foothill soil is semi-arid (ideal for growing vines) and the day to night temperatures are quite extreme, which helps with pest and fungus control.   The wines are all 100% organically produced, with absolutely no use of pesticides or fertilizers.  And they’re good too!  Better yet, they’re affordable, ranging from $9 to $18 a bottle.

 There is, by the way, a Chilean project with the same profile:  the stunningly huge producer Concho y Toro has started a delightfully progressive and outrightly beautiful new set of wines under the label Cono Sur.  The Cono Sur website is well worth a visit.

 Now, the other thing to know and appreciate about Argentinia’s large level of production is that it has a lot of land and geographic variation— over 1000 miles of length of variation.  The northernmost wine growing area (Salta) is about as far from the southernmost (Rio Negro) as Seattle is from Los Angeles.  The conditions are remarkably different, and so are the wines.

 The region that is best known is Mendoza, mostly because wines from its region most often exported to the US.  However, the other regions produce great wine, and hopefully we will start seeing more of it soon.  Keep an eye out for these other regions, listed here from north to south: Jujuy, Salta, Tucuman, Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, La Pampa, and Rio Negro.  The last, Rio Negro, is producing some incredible wines, but thus far few of them arrive in the US.

 So, if you want to be really hip, start to ask your wine shop to look out for Argentine wines from regions other than Mendoza, as well as varietals like Torrontes, Bonarda, or Sangiovese.

 We’re going to pour a round of Argentine wines at tonight’s tasting, so after I hear what people liked and why, I’ll post about the results.

 Best,

 Haj

 

This Thursday, January 8, from 6 to 8pm, were celebrating at Vino Verite for our tasting— for us, it’s our new years day. We are celebrating a great first year that we’ve been open on Capitol Hill.  We owe great thanks to everyone who has come in, given us advice and praise, and bought wine on their terms.  That’s why we opened on the Hill.

You’d think that since we run a wine shop, we’re bringing home pricey, rare bottles of wine on a regular basis.

Not true.  In fact, we like “everyday” stuff just like the next person— and we don’t want to pay a lot for it either.

So we thought it would be fun to expose folks to what we, as guys who run a wine shop, love to pick out— yes, it’s tough to choose our favorites given that the goal is to choose great wines, each of which we have tasted and liked.  But we want to pour a lineup that we are proud of and which represents our diverse tastes and moods.

So here’s what we take home on average, and what we’ll pour this Thursday— and if not these very wines, wines just like them:

Delmas Blanquette de Limoux

Blanquette de Limoux’s claim to fame is that sparkling wine was “discovered” here first in the 1500s— somewhat by accident.  Secondary fermentation in the bottle is what produces true, elegant bubbles, and Blanquette de Limoux consistently produces beautiful sparkling wine.  The grape is Mauzac, which tends to be on that tart-fruit side, so the fermentation and aging process brings some tempered qualities to its nature. It has everything we’d want in a bubbly: crisp fruit, a hint of yeast on the nose to intrigue anyone, but enough crisp acidity and creamy texture to please just about any guest and pair with any appetizer.

2005 La Chablisienne Chablis “La Sereine”

Chablis gets a bad rap sometimes— mostly because we’ve all had a glass of hastily made Chablis from California which may have tasted like Kool Aid and definitely gave us a headache.  But the French have always done it right— the fruit should be up front, but texture, structure, and balance should prevail. Therefore, it’s always easy to pick this bright, subtle, and classy Chablis from La Chablisienne.

2005 Henriques Cotes du Roussillon “La Linea”

Most cars have five gears these days, and many even have an all-wheel drive option.  In the wine world, the Henriques La Linea represents fifth gear and the grip of four wheels.  Dark berry with alluring spice, this has great texture and a long, beautiful finish.  We wait for wines of this power and complexity to come along at this price level.  It’s like having an expensive meal all in itself, swirling in your glass.

2005 Domaine des Tours Vin de Pays de Vaucluse

One of our “secret weapon” wines: by this we mean that one does not need to know about wine, nor about grapes, nor soil conditions— sometimes, it’s great just to know the longer story about the label.  Domaine des Tours is a “secondary label” of Chateau Rayas, which produces reds that top $200 a bottle.  In France, the law is still king, and wineries are only allowed to make certain amounts of top level wine from top level vineyards and regions.  The result can be passed on to us mortals: great wineries make stunning wines under other labels, sometime using the same grapes and always using the same expertise.  This label is by far one of our favorites, and it’s a funky and intriguing wine.  If you’ve ever heard someone use the word “terroir” and wondered what it meant, this wine is the answer.  When we treat ourselves, this is often what we bring home.

2001 Rotllan Torra Priorat Reserva

We love regions that are famous for the right reasons, but always hunt for the standout wines which are priced for regular consumption.  In most cases, the region’s prices are for a reason— the wines produced are of striking quality and complexity.  Priorat is a favorite, and the wines of this region are some of the most powerful in all of the European Continent.  The soil is has a great deal of broken-up rock in its composition, so the heat of the sun is stored and radiated at night as well, feeding the roots of the vines and ripening the grapes to become powerfully concentrated and full. Furthermore, Priorat a tiny place, and the only region to be awarded the prestigious “DOC” status other than Rioja.  Similar to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, these wines aren’t for everyone, especially those searching for a “delicate” experience.  But in the winter, a Priorat can’t be beat— it’s like curling up in a window nook and reading something heavy like Woolf, Coetzee, or Tolstoy.

2004 Andre Brunel Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Considered by some to be the most famous vineyards in the world, one has to envision how most of the vines are grown:  around the base of each vine is a pile of palm-sized rocks.  The idea is to protect the soil from erosion and over-exposure, but the rocks also gather the heat of the sunlight during the day, and deliver it to the roots during the night: the result is powerful, fascinating wine.  We admit Grenache to be a favorite grape, and “CnDP” (as it’s called online) is a great example of its charms.  There can be great variation to the flavors it delivers, but dark berry, chocolate, raisin, tea, licorice, and leather are all in the realm of possibilities.

2004 Chateau Bel Air Sainte-Croix-de-Mont

Another secret weapon— a dessert wine from the Sauternes region, a well-known region that tends to fetch hundreds of dollars for certain vintages.  Nearby the famous Sauternes is a small village topped with a church called St. Croix du Mont, and it is as beautiful as one might imagine, with the vineyards circling the small mountain.  This wine has the zest and beauty of sweet Bordeaux (made from the Semillon grape) but priced for dinner-party delivery.  In short, your guests (or date) will think you are a wine-god, and you still have money for the week.

We hope to see you from 6 to 8pm to try some of these gems.  And as always, if the light’s on, knock and come on in.

—Haj

 So as you raise that glass, just make sure it’s good stuff.  It’s fairly easy to pick sparkling wine that is excellent and won’t give you a headache.

And even better, there are so many different kinds of sparkling wines to choose from— Champagne is always a great choice, but there’s a lot more to consider.  There’s bubbles made by French winemakers in Northern California (Roderer), great stuff from Australia (Cockatoo Ridge), or a crisply dry and fascinating sparkling Malbec from Argentina called Alma Negra.  Heck, there’s even sparkling wine made in New Mexico, and it’s really superb stuff.

Vino Verite will be open late on New Year’s Eve, and we’ve put a lot of bubbles in the cooler.  Stop on by if you want to taste a pour or two, and let us guide you to some excellent choices.

At the very least, come clink a glass with us.  We’ve had a great time this year becoming part of the Capitol Hill community.  We’re so glad we opened the shop where we did, and everyone has been great.  We’re happy to celebrate with you.

It’s been a scary year in many ways, but I believe that with every raised glass there is hope and great intentions.  We mean it when we say “cheers!”

So say it loud, and put your glass up with confidence.  It is what we make it, after all.

Best,

Haj

Well folks, despite the cold and the warnings of inclement weather, we say come on out this Thursday for some winter warmth and cheer! Seattle native Eric Claesson (well, he’s Swedish actually) will be in house playing some tunes from his new CD, Scowlers. You can preview some of his music by going to his website, www.ericclaesson.com.

The mellifluous Brian Huse will also be on hand to explain the tasting lineup from Vinum Importers, which will be a fine spread of French wines with an emphasis on value – and, thinking of the holidays coming up – sparkling wines! (That, and Dave and Haj are in a celebrating mood!)

Two more announcements:

We now have gift certificates available if you want to give that special someone a real treat – an opportunity to choose wine at Vino Verite, with the help of Dave and Haj!

Extra holiday hours will continue through the next week – we will be open this Sunday from 3pm to 7pm, and Monday (December 22) from 1pm to 7pm.

The wines we’re tasting on Thursday:Jaillance “Renaissance” $10, and Jaillance Cremant d’Bordeaux Rosé  $13
Both of these selections from this age-old producer Jaillance are superb sparklers using traditional grapes from the region – Semillon, Savignon Blanc, Muscadelle, and sometimes red varietals to provide some color. The result is a New Year’s Eve secret weapon: superb value, bright and refreshing flavors, and a creamy, appealing texture.

NV Ampelidae “Armance B” Brut (Organic)  $15
The result of the highly committed and forward thinking winemaker Frédéric Brochet. The sparkling wines from the Loire Valley we have shown as past tastings have always been a hit – and for good reason. The Savingon Blanc grape yields fascinating flavors, often delicate and dry, but always inviting to the nose. This organically farmed and fermented creation is a wonder for the palate

2005 Chateau de la Nauve (St Emilion)  $18
St. Emilion, while it’s own appellation, is considered part of the overall region of Bordeaux. But rather than Cabernet Savingon as the chief grape, Merlot is king. Chateau de la Nauve’s red blend shows off the beauty of Merlot – with deep, dark fruit tones but floral notes as well. Like the dark indigo skies of winter, this wine has a brooding depth and class.

2005 Domaine de Calet “Long Terme”  $14
Ah, the south of France, and the Costieres de Nimes: warm air from the Mediterranean and great soils from the glacially-flattened mountains. The Romans were most fond of wines from this region. The “Long Terme” blend is 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache, it is the unique soil of this region that brings the deep, round flavors of this wine remarkable nuance and quality. This is the wine to enjoy while curled up with a good book.

2004 Hecht & Bannier Minervois  $19
Remaining in the south of France, we will finish with this beautiful red from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. It’s almost unbelievable what comes from a glass of this wine – concentrated dark berry, violets, spice, some earth, and a chocolate-like finish. This will send you home happy – especially if you have a bottle with you.

We look forward to seeing you there!

Cheers,

Haj and Dave

There’s sure to be some form of sunshine that night!  We could use a little on the Hill this week.

There’s nothing like the approach of the Holidays!  And there’s nothing like TWO tastings on the Hill in one night.

Poco Wine Room is hosting one great event— the “Holi-gay Bubbles and Red Wine” Tasting is Thursday, December 11, from 6 to 9pm.  Here are the details:

Come join us as we ring in the holiday season with the Holi-Gay Bubbles and Red Wine Tasting, Thursday December 11 6pm-9pm!! Cost is $10, and you get to taste ten great-tasting bubbles and red wines from around the world, specially selected for the event by Peter with help from Kurt Schlatter of A & B Imports. This event should be great fun with Peter and Kurt pouring.

As always, your tasting fee will be applied to the first bottle you purchase. This is a super chance to have some fun and get the wines you want for the holidays at good savings.

If you just haven’t had enough, head down to Vino Verite’s regular Thursday free tasting with Dris of Nardone Wine Imports, an Italian importer with impeccable taste. Here’s the line up and description of the wines:

“There really is no importer like Nardone Wines, and furthermore, there’s no host like Dris to tell you about what is selected for this Thursday’s tasting. We’ll be bold here: if you have plans, change them. If friends are in town, bring them in – don’t miss these wines! It’s a classic lineup from Italy, with something for everyone; and, as always, we are thinking of your budget while also helping you impress yourself, your love, your guests. Meraviglioso!

Terra Serena Prosecco, Extra Dry $12
What evening of Italian wines starts without a Prosecco? And this beautiful choice, from Terra Serena, will allure and thrill anyone. Both citrus and stone fruit greet the nose, and the body is crisp, perfect, and fruity, with a nice, curt finish emblematic of all dry, carefully crafted sparkling wines.

Cantina Montello Trebbiano D’Abruzzo Belcanto $7
Trebbiano is a wonderful varietal well known in Italy and prized by experienced Italian wine drinkers – here’s your chance to see why it is so cherished, sometimes even “hidden” from the common view and taste. It’s lively and bright, along with a great texture and finish.

Negro Nebbiolo D’Alba 2004 $21
A stunning wine at a great price. In short, the Negro Nebbiolo is why we love Italian wine – lively but balanced fruit with a perfectly dry finish. Want more detail? Roses, strawberries, and raspberry notes lead to warm fruit delivered with elegant, light tannins.

Regina Chianti 2005 $15
Ah, there’s nothing like a good Chianti – fresh, a little rustic, cherry and earthy flavors play out to a nice finish. Good along, good with pizza, good with stew – also good when shared with your sweetie on a cold, dark night, as we are prone to have until well past December.

Villa Giradri Ripasso Classico 2006 $23
“Ripasso” refers to a process where the same grapes used for Amarone are allowed to have a second chance to make wine. The result is in some ways the same – with raisin, cherry, some say a touch of cedar and the finish of chocolate or smooth coffee. Don’t forget that most Amarone wines top $100 a bottle, so to get near such delightful and complex expression is a real treat.

Casetta Moscato D’Asti $18
And lastly, what evening of Italian wines would be complete without a Moscato D’Asti? This sweet and crisp wine delivers fruit and silky texture. The perfect way to end any party, sending the guests home warm and happy.

Some Holiday Shopping Reminders: for the rest of the year, we’re offering a 10% discount for 6 bottle purchases, and 15% for whole cases (mixed cases are fine!)”

Well, Amen to that.

Cheers.

 First, let’s face it— there’s no such thing as an “ideal” wine given how people’s palates differ, both in tasting wine by itself or when paired with food.  How many times have you been in the room when every single person liked the wine?  There’s always someone who would prefer something else (whether she or he tells you or not).

But let’s try to pick something ideal anyway, since it’s a fun challenge to pair appropriately, especially for Thanksgiving, for which the food is as varied as the company:  Turkey, a dark, “gamey” tasting meat; mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes; cranberries, either sour and sweet (here’s the real challenge for pairing!) and gravy, store bought or homemade from the turkey’s parts;  the vegetables are up for grabs, as I have had brussel sprouts, green beens, and broccoli at different T-day meals.  It seems the only thing that is truly consistent is the Turkey, the cranberries, and the pumpkin pie.

Yet after much discussion with a variety of people (but all of them opinionated) who have a variety of tastes, it seems that Beaujolais might be considered the “ideal” Thanksgiving wine— or at least as close as you’re going to get to ideal.

Now, it just so happens that the great rush on Beaujolais— or “cult rush” I should say— that is Beaujolais Nouveau, has occurred on the third Thursday of November for decades. (Le Pichet has a great event every year.)  The grape we are talking about, in case you have never known, is Gamay.  It’s a very—well— grapey flavored grape and makes wine that has hints of the essence of red grapes.  The skin of Gamay is very thin so tannins are light; but acidity usually runs high in these wines so they “want food” as the saying goes.

Some people love Beaujolais Nouveau with Thanksgiving, since the wine marks a harvest celebration similar to Thanksgiving itself.  But Beau-Nouveau is an acquired taste.  So considering the more sturdy and aged Beaujolais wine is a great idea:  Moulin-a-Vent is the most prominent area in Beaujolais itself and produces some strikingly beautiful wines.  Often Gamay from this region has hints of cranberry, blackberry, plum, and spice qualities, with a healthy acidity backing it up to “cut through” just about any food and yet one can still taste the great fruit qualities of the wine.

I hate to put it this way, but the sign of a good Beaujolais is price— anything under $12 is probably going to be fairly thin in flavor and taste more like a Beau-Nouveau.

Rosé is the other obvious and rather “universal” choice— now, of course, there are a host of regions with great Rosés.  The most famous region for Rosé, Tavel, is hard to beat; though it is also hard to find a Tavel Rosé for under $20.   Some of the sparkling Rosés, both domestic and foreign, can often fit the bill; but one has to be ready for a typical range of earthy and yeasty flavors to follow the pairing-useful and complimentary flavors of strawberry, cranberry, and lively floral notes that come with many of the pink sparklers.  The Rioja and Ribera del Duero in Spain are great regions for Rosé, and so is the lesser-known, hard-to-find, but imminently worthwhile Somontano region (Europe has caught on to this region, but not America yet).  France has much more in store, Provence being superb but generally not long-lasting, or just about anything else in the southern region’s Vin de Pays or Languedoc-Roussillon.  Again, I suggest you look for something over $12 but under $30.

In the end, I find that if you really want to focus on and enjoy a wine, it should be in a situation where it’s you and a few other people (who feel the same way about wine). Otherwise you may find that your chosen bottle, either at your house, or the one you brought to someone’s party, is empty, and nobody seems to remember what it tasted like.  (But everyone will say “oh yeah, I liked it.”) This is why I recommend the under $30, so you can feel comfortable buying a couple of bottles and then making the choice to offer them to others, or just enjoy them yourself on these now consistently cold nights.

Wine cellaring in Spain's Somontano region

Tavel, the king of Rosé

O-S Winery's BSH Red Blend

Owen-Sullivan winery, otherwise known as “O-S”, is offering their ONLY tasting in Seattle (until 2009), and it’s on the Hill! With its small production facility located in South Seattle, O-S crafts wines using fruit from some of the most select appellations in Washington – including Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain, and Zephyr Ridge, one of Washington’s most exclusive but lesser known sites for growing vines.

The basics:

O-S Winery Tasting

Vino Verite — at the corner of Boylston and Olive 9just down from Olive/John and Broadway

Thursday, November 20

Time: 6-8pm

Here is the outstanding lineup of wines to be poured from O-S:

2007 Riesling
This is a fine example of the Owen and Sullivan approach: am amazing Riesling which begins with a floral nose, but ends with striking stone fruits, sturdy acidity, and a great mouthfeel all around. When was the last time you tried a Washington Riesling (or any domestic for that matter) that was under 10% alcohol? This takes a commitment to the timing of the harvest and the winemaking itself.

2005 Cabernet Franc
Released in May 2008, this Cabernet Franc blend (with 17% Cabernet Sauvignon) separates out the strong and distinct abilities of the varietal. With similar up-front and dark fruit notes delivered by traditional Cabernet Sauvignon, there are unique qualities to the nose and body that can only come from Cab-Franc. The finish of this wine is its secret weapon – complex, long, and pleasing with its smooth, graphite-like texture.

2005 BSH
This blend serves up the best of Cabernet Sauvignon itself, harkening back to some of the most famous vintages ever produced in the history of domestic winemaking: beautiful dark cherry fruit, coffee, mint, and spices. How could there be this much complexity in a glass? The key is the 2005 vintage and careful winemaking and blending.

2004 Ulysses
Like Ulysses himself, this Bordeaux style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet France is muscular, adventurous and exotic. The dark color of the wine provides an introduction to the rich and jammy flavors, which are rounded out with intriguing notes of spice and anise, all held up by well-developed tannins.

2005 R3
Usually we don’t just quote the winery in our notes, but this is too good to leave out:
“R3, Catherine Deneuve – that’s all you need to know. Beyond that however there is the dark, elusive side of the ‘05 vintage; the aroma of black cherries and clove with hints of roses. Richness and concentration are balanced with soft, supple tannins and acidity. The flavors of cassis, dark chocolate and ripe blackberry are generous but still subtle. This is a graceful wine from its plush, mouth-filling start to its deliciously lingering finish.” Usually we’re pretty articulate too – but on this one we just say, “oh yeah!”

Bill Owen, co-founder of O-S, will be on hand to talk about the wines and vineyard sites. Again, these wines are in small production so don’t miss this opportunity, especially if you have never tasted an O-S wine.

Here are the basics:

Madison Market Wine Tasting

Wednesday, November 19th

5:30 – 7PM

@Madison Crossing

1610 16th Ave # 36

Seattle, WA 98122

And here’s the line up as Joelle writes it:

“This month, I have chosen wines that pair well with holiday meals. Please join me.

Charlette Voyant Effervescent Touraine NV  $12.99

Biodynamic sparkler for the Loire Valley. Pale yellow in color with a fine and persistent foam. Light and fresh. Delicious!

Dopff and Irion Gewurztraminer $19.99

Pale, cool and very fragrant. Dry , crisp and rose petal and honey suckle blossom aromas. Generous and bright with good saline minerality. Alsace.

Moulin a Vent Diochin Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes $24.99

“This ruby-coloured [2000] Moulin-à-Vent has appealing red cherry aromas.  On the palate, it is medium bodied and has a layered personality filled with fresh bing cherries.  It is dominated by fruit and has excellent grip, as well as a long, supple finish.”

The Wine Advocate #137, 89points

McKinlay Pinot Noir $19.99

Intense red and black fruits. Bright acidity with fine tannins. Incredible length. Willamette Valley. Don’t be fooled by the understated label.

Briederner Ruberberger Auslese GK Domherrenberg Riesling $34.99

Twenty-something winemaker Matthias Gorgen offers this gorgeous hand-harvested late-harvest wine from Mittelmosel. Succulent orange peel with a hint of ginger.

I hope to see you there!”

Joelle Hand

Wine Diva and Beer Baroness

joellehand@madisonmarket.com

206-329-1545 #216

Five superb wines poured by a diva?  We’re there.